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Take a stroll through any street in
Malaysia and you are bound to notice many women dressed in a simple
shift-like tunic, paired with a sarong, in a dazzling range of colors
and fabrics. This is the baju kurung - one of the official
traditional outfits of the Malay woman that blends seamlessly with the
multi-racial population of the country.
The baju kurung was popularized in
the 1800s by the Father of Modern Johor, Sultan Abu Bakar, who wanted a
costume for the Malays that was both aesthetically pleasing, yet
complied with the laws of Islam where modesty is a pre-requisite,
covering all of the body except for the hands and the feet. Sultan Abu
Bakar was also very much responsible in the process of refining the
baju kurung, adding embroidery on the sleeves, hem and neckline,
transforming it into an outfit that was completely suitable for formal
functions. The costume was named after the area in which he lived, and
although today Teluk Blangah is a part of Singapore, the baju kurung
Teluk Belanga remains an integral part of Malay culture.
The term baju kurung can be
translated loosely into 'confined dress'. It is anything, but. The style
in itself pays homage to simplicity: A loose shift with a rounded
neckline held together with a single button or brooch. Both men and
women can wear the outfit, with the difference being that men wear a
shorter version of the shift over Achehnese-style trousers, with a
kain samping or a short version of the sarong folded around the
hips.
The women wear a knee-length baju
kurung Teluk Belanga top, over a sarong pleated with folds on either
the right or the left side. The baju kurung Teluk Belanga is worn
in a range of materials, but light cottons remain the most popular. More
luxurious fabrics like silks, songket (gold embroidered
material), pure cottons, brocades and lace are reserved for special
occasions.
The baju kurung Teluk Belanga has
been adopted as the official costume of the Malay man, and is now called
the baju melayu. Women however, have a choice of two designs -
the baju kurung or the kebaya. The modern day baju
kurung is a highly versatile outfit, worn by almost every Malaysian
woman, from school children to civil servants, corporate figures and
even members of royalty. It is agarment that transcends cultural
barriers effortlessly, that it is not uncommon to see Chinese and
Indians in Malaysia dressed up in baju kurung as office wear, its
fluid lines offer easy movement and a refreshing alternative to the less
forgiving power suit.
As with other costumes, there are many
variations of the baju kurung that are found through Peninsula
Malaysia. The baju Kedah is one take of is that is popular in the
northern states. The sleeves and hem are shorter with a bujur sireh
(elliptical) neckline and worn over a cotton sarong. It's the less
glamorous and a more utilitarian outfit for the Malay women to work in
her kitchen or paddy fields. Because of the durability expected, it's
usually worn in breathable materials like cotton.
Another popular style is the baju
kurung cekak musang. The collar is similar to that of a Mandarin
collar. And again, this is a unisex style, where men don the shorter
version and women wear the longer one. On the other hand, the baju
kebaya traces its history back to Melaka. This was a popular form of
dress for women living along the Straits of Melaka.
The original baju kebaya was a
shirt-like form-fitting garment that gently flared out till the knees or
even lower and paired with a batik sarong. It was worn over a chemise
(in general) or a high-necked inner blouse (flavored by the Straits
Chinese). This is one outfit that has a place amongst the three main
races in Malaysia. Even the Chitty Indians of Melaka (Malacca) had their
own version of the kebaya which is worn till today. This outfit
has also evolved into a modern and sexy piece of attire with the tunic
worn short over a tight sarong. The kebaya pendek was de
rigueur of fashionistas in the 1960s and 1970s.
The lapels of the kebaya were held
together by kerongsang - three brooches that were either separate
or linked together with a chain. The kerongsang are often
valuable pieces of jewellery, fashioned intricately with great attention
to details. Kerongsang usually comes in a set of three, with the
largest one called the ibu (mother) worn at the top, followed by
the two anak (children). The kebaya is paired with a
sarong but worn differently from the baju kurung where it's
simply folded over in the front and held up with a tali pinggang besi
(steel chain belt). The look is usually completed with a selendang
(shawl) draped gracefully over the shoulder. However, a newer
version combining the alluring cut of the kebaya with the comfort of the
baju kurung is the kebarung - a popular outfit amongst
modern Malaysian women.
The traditional and modern baju kurung
and kebaya is a must for Moslem Malays celebrating Eid-Ur-Fitr
(Hari Raya Puasa). But whatever the style, these outfits reflect the
grace of the Malay woman which has withstood the test of time and tide
over the centuries.
* Cotton is the preferred material for
both the baju and the sarong.
* Traditional jewellery such as heirloom
diamond bracelets are often worn with the baju Melayu during the
festive season.
* The baju kurung also lends itself
to formal functions with the addition of beadwork.
* The men usually complete the look with
chapal (sandals).
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