The story of the kopitiam is being re-told
with modern additions but rest assured, its central plot of good,
aromatic coffee and warm toast have not been compromised.
Fancy charcoal-grilled toast slathered with
fragrant coconut custard jam and washed down with thick, black,
margarine-roasted coffee? Malaysian kopitiams or coffee shops offer an
experience unlike the average Starbucks. The very name kopitiam reflects
the cultural mix characteristic of Malaysia - kopi is the Malay
word for coffee and tiam is the Hokkien (Chinese) word for shop.
A veritable icon, the kopitiam is a place where locals meet to hang out
and trade gossip over roti bakar, kaya, half-boiled eggs
and kopi-o, served piping hot in porcelain cups stained brown
from years of overuse.
Decor is uniform - marble-top tables,
round-backed wooden chairs, large mirrors, tiled floors and walls. The
place is alive with untold tales - stories about real people from the
past literally stained into the very furniture. Ceiling fans whirr
lazily overhead, a fitting reflection of a slower pace of life where
people could while the morning away reading newspapers or engaging in
loud, good-natured coffee shop talk with fellow regulars.
It is a world of exotic language and
customers, yet one that can be navigated successfully if one cares to
learn the lingo and observe a few simple rules. Coffee in its most basic
form is called kopi-o. Kopi, kopi-See and kopi Kao
are variations thereof. To get you cuppa just right, add the appropriate
suffix to your choice of either kopi or teh (tea). If you'd like
your drink chilled, add the word ais (ice) right at the end.
Finally, if you can't decide between tea or coffee, just order a cham
(kopi/teh mix). Once you have mastered the vocabulary, try slurping up
your coffee or half-boiled eggs from a saucer like a true-blue kopitiam
kaki (regular). If all this seems a wee bit daunting, ease into it
slowly at modernised versions of this ancient institution. Modern
establishments Kopitiam have menus in English complete with pictures
that get you salivating in anticipation. These news kids on the block do
a roaring trade serving up nostalgia to young urbanites hankering for
the kopi and roti bakar kaya of their youth. With the
exception of modern niceties like air-conditioning, state-of-the-art
point of sale (POS) terminals and smart uniforms, the modern kopitiams
could well be mistaken for their humble ancestors. Though slightly
pricier, the food is just as good and as much in demand as the offerings
at the traditional kopitiams.
The enterprising owners of modern-day
kopitiams seem to have stumbled on to a good thing. Expanding on the
proven popularity of basic like kopi, roti bakar and kaya,
they have beefed up the menu with favorites like
nasi lemak and mee jawa in order to provide something
more filling for the lunch and dinner crowd. Some places even offer
heart-friendly Omega 3 eggs - no doubt assuaging health-conscious
patrons worried about rising cholesterol levels.
Appearance and menus aside, the biggest
difference between the two is the clientele. Any old kopitiam worth its
salt will have its own cast of characters - regulars who earn the right
to first-class seats by their abiding presence and longevity. It is a
recipe that seems to work: air-conditioning and English menus
notwithstanding, both traditional and modern kopitiams distill the very
essence of quintessential Malaysian life. Billionaire tycoons and
traveling salesmen alike can be found sitting around the marble tables,
blissfully satisfying their cravings for a RM2 cup of kopi-O and
roti bakar kaya. So, instead of running to the nearest coffee
franchise for a caffeine fix, pop by the nearest kopitiam, find a
comfortable seat, and take time to smell the coffee.
What to order in Kopitiam :
Roti Bakar - Toast bread
Kaya - Coconut custard jam
Kopi-O - Local coffee served black
with sugar
Kopi - Coffee sweetened with
condensed milk
Kopi-see - Coffee with evaporated
milk
Kopi Kao - Extra-strong coffee
Nasi Lemak - Rice steamed in coconut
milk, served with fried anchovies, cucumber slices, roasted peanuts,
hard-boiled eggs and a spicy chutney called sambal
Mee Jawa - Noodles in thick gravy