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Kuala Lumpur (Capital city of Malaysia) has air-conditioned shopping
malls that are the equivalent of the world's best. But there are also
shopping areas in the city that are as Asian as can be. A visit to the
Chinatown and Central Market area is a total sensory journey for any
shopper and the experience is far more thrilling especially for first
time visitors.
It's difficult not to be excited by the
range of new aromas, the hustle and bustle of traders shouting out the
virtues of their wares, the sense of excitement and the theatre of it
all that is packed into this part of central Kuala Lumpur. Sure, it can
get hot, busy and sometimes claustrophobic but at least you know you are
alive when you are there. Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) is
similar to many other Chinatowns in big cities around the world.
However, there are other elements of Malaysian culture and society that
make it unique. It's often called Petaling Street, which is the main
artery there, and taxi drivers often understand this as a direction
better than your saying "Chinatown". The area is concentrated in
Petaling Street and bounded by Jalan Tun H.S. Lee and Jalan Hang Lekir.
Walking is the best way to discover the
heart of the old city. Much of what occurs in this part of town has not
changed for decades. Old men still ride dilapidated bicycles to collect
and deliver their wares. Chinese medicinal shops display their
traditional herbs and medicines in stores that could have come out of
the last century. There are goldsmiths, basket weavers, dry goods
stores, shops selling pots and pans, food outlets of all descriptions
and clothing sores. The old residents hold fast as new developments
slowly make their inroads and the architectural facades change.
The five-foot walkways offer shelter from
the tropical heat but most are filled with traders and their stalls
selling all sorts of treasures. While the area is known as Chinatown, it
is an ethnically mixed area with an Indian temple and local Malay curry
houses among the predominantly Chinese shops. This part of city rarely
sleeps so visitors can visit it at various times of the day and night to
appreciate the constantly changing atmosphere. In the morning, dim sum
restaurants are popular for breakfast and the wet market is active with
chefs and homemakers selecting the freshest produce. The pace picks up
at lunchtime as office workers satisfy cravings that have been high on
their minds since breakfast. Things quieten down a little in the
afternoon, but once work finishes, crowd arrive and the streets return
to their frenzied state of excitement.
The least exciting time to visit is during
Chinese New Year when many of the merchants take their holidays. Food is
served around the clock in make-shift open-air stalls, in fan-cooled
coffee shops or air-conditioned restaurants. Some favorite dishes in
Chinatown include
dim sum,
Hainanese chicken rice,
curry laksa,
won ton mee,
assam laksa, and yong tau foo. Petaling street is always so crammed
that cars battle with pedestrians to negotiate the narrow stall-lined
street. However, in the evening, pedestrians reign supreme and stall
sellers commandeer the entire road. Many of these merchants sell a
variety of fake imitation brands and operate seemingly with immunity.
It's all a bit of the fun so don't be surprised if that "designer" watch
you buy self destructs just months after purchase. While prices may be
displayed, bargaining is an essential component of shopping here.
Firstly, choose a price that you are happy with and then start the great
Asian game of bargaining. Pay what you think it's worth and enjoy the
exchange.
There are several places of worship in the
district that make a peaceful retreat from the street side mayhem. The
colorful and ornate facade of Sri Mahamariaman Hindu Temple is an
interesting sight. Constructed over a century ago, it is from here that
the annual Thaipusam pilgrimage to the Batu Caves begins. Fragrant
jasmine garlands are sold in the street and the front entrance is lined
with shoes that must be removed before entering the temple. Like all
places of worship in the country they are solemn places first and
tourist attractions second. Photography can also be a sensitive subject
for some, so ask or gesticulate your wishes first.
Just down the road is the Persatuan Kwong
Siew Chinese Temple built in 1888. Nearby in Jalan Hang Kasturi, the
oldest temple in Kuala Lumpur, the Temple of Sin Szu SI Ya stands hidden
a little back from the street. Look for the colorful facade above the
drive-way entrance. This small temple is a hive of activity as devotees
burn incense, make offerings on the altars and hit big brass gongs to
seek help and guidance. Just beyond the back entrance to the temple is
the large and colorfully decorated Central Market. Built in 1936, it was
saved from demolition and converted into a showcase of local and
regional arts and crafts in 1986. It is an easy walk between Chinatown
and the Central Market.
The art deco markets stand just near where
the first tin mining operation in Kuala Lumpur (KL) was established
about 150 years ago. Once a wet market principally selling fresh
vegetables, meat and fish and vegetables, Central Market now houses
hundreds of stalls, food outlets, a Cineplex, a small exhibition space
and an outdoor amphitheatre for cultural performances. A great selection
of goods is sold here, including handicrafts, souvenirs, jewellery,
clothes, antiques and art. In addition to Malaysian crafts, you can find
Burmese puppets, silk cloth from Cambodia, woven mats from Sarawak,
cotton textiles from Laos and carved wooden products from Thailand.
Bargaining is still advisable especially with some of the more pricey
antiques and pieces of art.
There are some interesting stores
including Songket Sutera Asli. Songket is one of Malaysia's best known
textiles that incorporates golden threads with colorful cottons. It is
highly respected and valued. Some artists wait for consumers to draw
quick sketches or photo perfect images. They use crayons and pen and ink
on the spot. Those seeking higher quality portraits have to wait a few
days. There are various stalls selling nasi kandar or rice smorgasbord
with tantalizing curries and vegetable dishes served to accompany the
rice staple. Some restaurants, food stalls and pubs are also found on
both floors of the building.
Outside, a pedestrian mall fronts old
shops in various states of disrepair. Many are traditional shops selling
produce as they have for decades. Others are souvenir shops, art
galleries and restaurants including the fastfood variety. Not far away
is a new urban train station and the end of the mall is one of the
city's main bus stops so people are always milling around. The mall
itself is one of the most popular meeting places in Kuala Lumpur. It's
not uncommon for locals to say "meet you in Central Market".
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